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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.